Wine in Amphora, the Rediscovery of the Tradition

The use of terracotta by producers reflects a desire to return to the origins, rediscovering the ancient relationship between man and nature dating back thousands of years. This trend is now increasingly widespread throughout the world, especially in western countries with a stronger wine-making tradition, including Italy and Spain.

The pioneer of the rediscovery of amphora wine was Josko of the Gravner winery who, starting in 1996, began producing his Ribolla Gialla with long macerations on the skins in Georgian underground containers called Qvevri, inspired by traditions still active in the countries of Caucasia. A few years later, Giusto Occhipinti of the Sicilian COS winery introduced the use of Spanish terracotta containers called Tinajas for the production of Cerasuolo di Vittoria, soon convincing his friend Elisabetta Foradori to do the same with Teroldego in the Trentino region.

Since then, many producers have followed this path and today, given the worldwide spread of the phenomenon, some have said that "amphora is the new barrique". This gives an idea of the global importance of this production revolution. The reasons for this success consist essentially in the benefits of terracotta for the production of artisanal wines, produced with long maceration on the skins and without the use of any additives. These positive properties consist of:

• Excellent thermal insulation, also favoured by the possibility of burying the containers;
• Constant oxygenation, made possible by the porosity of the material;
• Ability to preserve the fruit intact without loss of substances between the container and the liquid, thus allowing the fruit variety to emerge.

The combination of these benefits makes it possible to carry out slow fermentations with maceration on the skins without the need for external agents such as sulphur dioxide, aromas, yeasts and other additives. It all sounds very simple, but the possibilities and production methods are actually very diverse.

The Different Production Methods

The production of wines made in amphora can present different variables and is today strongly subject to experimental approaches. In Italy, the tendency is to de-stem the grapes and fill the containers with must and skins, relying on spontaneous fermentation and trying not to use sulphites and additives. The fermentation phase generally lasts a few days, during which manual punching down may be used, i.e. the marc that comes to the surface is returned to the must. At the end of this process, maceration on the skins of the must can continue for several months, encouraging a significant release of aromatic substances.

In Georgia, where the Qvevri tradition has remained active and vital to this day, a distinction is made between:

• Kekheto method, in which the marc remains in the must throughout vinification:
• Imereti method, with the presence of about 10% of the marc without stalks;
• Kartli method, with about 30% of the marc present with the stems.

A key constant in the production of amphora wine is therefore the total or partial presence of the marc in the must during the entire fermentation process or longer, for both whites and reds. A fundamental variable is the type of amphora container to be used:

• Qvevri from Georgia are large containers with an average capacity of 1,000 litres. They have no handles and are covered with a layer of beeswax on the inside and lime on the outside. They are intended to be buried and, very often, are left open to allow carbon dioxide to disperse;
• Tinajas produced in Spain are no larger than 80 hl and are sometimes covered with a layer of tar. They are rarely buried and are often closed with lids;
• The large clay pots of Tuscany, linked to the Impruneta tradition. Tuscan terracotta is porous but robust, so it does not need to be covered.

In addition to these variables, there are many others, and each producer can choose how to implement the production method, taking into account the style they want to obtain and, above all, the type of grape used. Ribolla Gialla grapes, for example, need long macerations to express their intense aromatic profile, while a red grape variety such as Aglianico tends to produce very structured expressions even if the period of contact with the skins is reduced.

Discover the peculiarities and unique personality of the wine made in amphora for sale online on the Callmewine store and on offer at a special price.